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About Breaking News Program Dates Feedback Donate Contact Industry Cluster Message Board		Enterprising Rural Communities Study Tour 2004 – Australia Monday, November 8, 2004 Maybe it's the sight of eucalyptus trees rather than oak and pine. Maybe it's the green undulating hills rising sharply in the distance, the gentle grassy fields rippling across their face. Maybe it's the unfamiliar timbre of our native language, coming smooth and melodic and ever-friendly from our new found Aussie friends. Whatever the reason, it's a fact. Australia transforms you. A window has opened in our hearts, letting a cool, refreshing openness, a receptiveness enter our souls. We leave Melbourne under grey skies and a gentle misting rain. The highway is crowded with early morning commuters. We don't notice the stop and start traffic as the cityscape falls away to clean, verdant countryside. We're on our way to the Gippsland Region, an agricultural area of outstanding beauty [1]. Our mission in the Gippsland Region: To explore the development of local businesses and trails that have been designed around the "Gourmet Deli Country Region" concept. This is a case study of the creation of regional themes and the development of high value agriculture and food industries built on a traditional agriculture base. We were to discover that some of these concepts were realized, while others weren't. With Keith, our proficient driver at the wheel, our mini-bus winds its way to our first stop, the Drouin West Fruit & Berry Farm. When owners Joanne Butterworth-Gray and her husband Colin bought the place 20-odd years ago, they found themselves with a project farm. The goal: To transform their 25 acres from a run down farm, with depleted soil and substandard buildings into a bountiful pick your own fruit and vegetable destination. They've succeeded [2]. Over 120 varieties of fruit and berries ripen throughout the year--all raised without the use of pesticides. There are strawberries[3], nectarines[4], and oranges[5], just to name a few. Joanne met us in the "Berry Good Café and Winery" with fresh coffee and blueberry muffins [6]. Joanne's marketing background was evident in the farm's presentation. The café presents a warm and inviting place to sample the farm's offerings. Over 60,000 visitors come to pick and purchase each year, with 70 percent of them returning year after year. Local entrepreneurs put together a gourmet deli trail, offering opportunities for visitors to map out a day trip where they could sample a variety of the region's gourmet offerings. Joanne says that trail has had its challenges. For one thing, it was the experience of many tourists to arrive at a destination, only to find it closed. Colin gave us a tour of the grounds, where we discovered a cornucopia of offerings, along with a small cottage tucked into a secluded corner. Many weekends this is rented out for those who looking for the "farm stay" experience. A bit down the road we arrived at the Alpine Trout Farm [7]. Set at the foot of a hill [8], this is primarily a wholesale operation. There are a total of 58 ponds, with three in the front set aside for the general public to come and catch their own rainbow trout or salmon. On a good weekend up to 300 people come to try their luck, which is virtually guaranteed. One piece of a multi-location enterprise, the Alpine Trout Farm welcomes the retail trade but doesn't find the trail a significant factor in visitors to the farm. Retail is not Alpine's main focus. It's the commercial customers in Melbourne and other larger population centers. There is a retail fish counter. Connie bought a smoked trout, which was excellent. It was getting on to mid day when we arrived at the Vintage Bake House. A friendly baker guided us to the rear entrance to the facility [9]. Three members of the Ford family, Max, Pearl, their son Dean work seven days a week creating and selling their finely crafted bakery goods. Their oven is unique, imparting it's own special signature onto the tarts, coffee cakes, meat pies, and breads that are transformed within it's huge interior. Heated by wood, it takes three days to stoke and prepare the oven for baking.[10,11] There of few ovens like this 80-year-old behemoth. The Fords are wonderful people; gracious, knowledgeable, and enthusiastic about their craft. We were pretty enthusiastic about their baking, and all of us loved the lunch they served us. Meat pies, similar to a pasty make an excellent choice for lunch. Just ask Marion. Dean says that Vintage Bakery was a participant in the gourmet trail. But it is hard to gauge when the customers will arrive and what they will want. They work long hours to accommodate their regular customers--extending the hours to serve those who may or may not show up proved impractical. As it is the bakery sells several thousand dollars of product a week. And that's a lot of baking. Bio Dynamics. It's a way of agricultural production that is more stringent than organic. It's the ultimate in creating food using the most sustainable methods possible. It's the way cheese has been crafted at Piano Hill Cheese Company for the past 20 years. We pulled up to the cheese house and Chris Brown bounded onto the bus to greet us. A bundle of enthusiasm, Chris explains that Piano Hill is a family operation. Her son David trained in France and Belgium to learn the cheese maker's craft. They produce small batches of some of the best cheese you're likely to taste in Australia … or anywhere else. And they have the awards to prove it along with the framed newspaper article on the wall. The entire production process at Piano Hill is essentially a closed system. They own the cows and use only their own milk. They craft their farmer-type cheese in small quantities, selling out of their case and to businesses in Melbourne. Not only does this closed system mean they have absolute control over quality, it also protects the company from undesirable outside influences. Several years ago the Australian government ceased milk price supports. The effect was devastating to farmers selling their milk to outside markets. Many left farming. Many that still farm are suffering from the lack of support. From the signage in their shop to the packaging on their product there is no doubt as to the brand of cheese you're buying [14,15]. Great care was even taken in selecting the name for the company. It serves two purposes: 1) it's unique, unlike any other cheese company; 2) it reflects a passion that runs deep within the Brown family--music. It's a theme they all wanted to carry into the business. After all, how many instances do you know of a "family band?" There's even a small display of glass and porcelain pianos in the retail shop. Talk about creating your story. There's definitely one here. Along with some excellent cheese. Do you want another business with a story? Ask Phil Gray, brother of Colin Gray, who with wife Joanne owns Drouin West Fruit and Berry Farm. When the brothers' parents sold the family farm both brothers bought their own. Colin eventually bought the berry farm. Phil bought a dairy farm. Along about five years ago Phil came to a realization-- he was sick of cows. In his case lack of price supports did nothing good at all to his bottom line. Phil is a man in transition. In the space that once served as a large workshop there now sit oak wine barrels, imported from France. Milking implements have given way to stainless steel winemaking equipment There is a tasting table set up and signage--all to promote Phil's current passion, Kouark Vineyard & Winery. One of only a few wineries in the region, in 2001 Phil first brought to market his Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and other varieties [16, 17]. Phil sells at farmers markets. When there is a wine delivery to be made in Melbourne he goes himself. It's important that people see face to face the man who makes the wine. After successfully selling most of his cows, Phil invested thousands in soil preparation, plants, and equipment. But, he says, the most important investment he made was in himself. While he's a man working to build his business, he's also a man with an end strategy. If all goes according to plan, Phil will sell the business in five years. It will be time for another move, another turn of the wheel in a life filled with perpetual transition. He'll do something else. Maybe consult. Maybe travel. Definitely pursue what he seeks at that time and place in his life. We left Gippsland and headed to Phillip Island with mixed feelings. The idea of a gourmet trail seems like a good idea. Yet despite a slick brochure and a web site (www.gourmetgippsland.com) that promote the region, the concept of a gourmet trail did not seem to catch a hold. We discussed several reasons. For one, while no doubt there are people dedicated to making the trail happen, there seems to be no strong leadership. There appears to be a lack of coordination. The lack of consistent hours among participants left many disappointed trail goers leaving the region empty handed. For some of the participants, it seemed doubtful that the trail would significantly affect traffic to their location. Some businesses had enough traffic without participation in the program. We saw potential and will be watching to see if the concept of a gourmet trail will finally come to the Gippsland Region. Many of you know Nicole Eisberner, who lives in Wisconsin Rapids and works at the Hotel Mead. She grew up on Phillip Island, a wonderful place we'll be talking about more tomorrow. Nicole was kind enough to contact some of her family and friends in the area. Nicole said to go meet her friends on the Australian Tour and she'd pick up the tab. Nicole, we owe you one. It was a fantastic experience! We had some terrific food and met some great people. And what a trip to be 7,000 miles from home, arrive at a restaurant on a little island, and meet all the wonderful people who showed up. Technical difficulties prevent us from showing the group shot just yet. I'm working on it and will get it posted if at all possible. We ended our evening watching the Penguin Parade. I've discovered that the days are the same length here in Australia as they are back in the States. It's very late at night and we've a busy day tomorrow. I'm going to hold the Penguins for just a bit. But believe me, next post will have penguins and much more to report back to you all. And trust me, penguins do the strangest things … And Mayor Bach, there's an item to reveal that I believe will please you very much!
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